The Struggles of Grocery Stores in Food Deserts: A Case Study of Rise Community Market in Cairo, Illinois

In the heart of Cairo, Illinois, a small town grappling with economic decline and food insecurity, the opening of Rise Community Market was heralded as a beacon of hope. On its inaugural day, the store attracted over 100 enthusiastic residents, eager to embrace the promise of fresh produce and healthy food options. For a community that had long been classified as a food desert—where access to affordable and nutritious food is severely limited—this moment was nothing short of magical. However, just a year later, the store’s struggles reveal the complexities and challenges of sustaining grocery initiatives in economically distressed areas.

The Promise of Fresh Food

Cairo, the seat of Alexander County, is known as Illinois‘ poorest county and has been shrinking rapidly. The arrival of Rise Community Market was part of a broader $30 million initiative by the state to combat food deserts across Illinois. During the grand opening, Illinois Lieutenant Governor Juliana Stratton emphasized the importance of access to healthy foods, framing it as a matter of justice. The community rallied around the store, which was seen as a vital step toward revitalizing the local economy and improving residents‘ health.

However, the initial excitement quickly gave way to harsh realities. Despite a strong start, Rise Community Market faced significant challenges in competing with larger national chains. Pricing became a major issue, as residents began to revert to old shopping habits, favoring nearby Dollar General stores or making the long trek to Walmart, located over 30 miles away.

The Downward Spiral

Within months of its opening, Rise Community Market encountered a series of setbacks. A broken walk-in cooler hampered the store’s ability to keep perishables stocked, leading to dwindling shelves and frustrated customers. Clarissa Dossie, a cashier at Rise, noted that during the store’s worst months, customers would come in and exclaim, “Dang, where the groceries at?” By December, just six months after its launch, the store was in peril.

The struggles of Rise Community Market are not unique. Over the past decade, state and federal governments have invested millions in creating grocery stores in food deserts, yet many of these initiatives have failed to yield sustainable results. A review of 24 stores across 18 states that received funding through the USDA’s Healthy Food Financing Initiative revealed that five had already closed, and several others had yet to open due to various challenges.

The Economic Landscape

The economic landscape in which these grocery stores operate is fraught with difficulties. Food deserts are characterized by depressed economies and declining populations, making it challenging for new stores to thrive. In Cairo, where approximately 17% of families lack access to a vehicle, residents often resort to dollar stores or travel long distances for groceries. The town’s last independent grocery store closed in 2015, leaving a significant void in the community.

The pricing issue is particularly acute for independent stores like Rise. They often pay more to stock their shelves than larger chains, making it difficult to compete. A 2023 USDA report highlighted that four grocery chains now capture a third of U.S. food sales, with Walmart dominating rural markets. In Cairo, Walmart and its affiliated stores account for a staggering 60% of grocery sales, leaving little room for independent retailers.

The Role of Government and Community Support

Despite the challenges, government initiatives continue to provide funding for grocery stores in food deserts. The Healthy Food Financing Initiative, established during the Obama administration, has allocated millions to support new food businesses. However, experts argue that simply opening stores is not enough; ongoing support and interventions are crucial for their survival.

Stacy Mitchell, co-executive director of the Institute for Local Self-Reliance, emphasized the need for a level playing field. Without enforcement of fair competition, independent stores like Rise will continue to be squeezed out by larger chains. The recent push for more aggressive antitrust actions reflects a growing recognition of the need to address the power imbalance in the grocery industry.

A Community’s Resilience

Despite the setbacks, the community of Cairo remains resilient. The arrival of fresh produce at Rise marked a turning point for many residents, symbolizing hope and better health. Steven Tarver, a community organizer, expressed the importance of the store in combating food insecurity and revitalizing the town’s spirit. The store has hosted various community events, from wedding receptions to health expos, reinforcing its role as a hub of local life.

As of June 2023, Rise Community Market celebrated its one-year anniversary, buoyed by a philanthropic grant that allowed it to pay off debts and replenish its stock. The store has also adapted by replacing its unsuccessful café with a more popular deli, and it has begun accepting government food benefits, which have boosted sales.

Looking Ahead

While Rise Community Market continues to fight for its survival, it faces an uphill battle. The store needs to achieve monthly sales of approximately $70,000 to break even, yet it has averaged less than half that amount. The community’s spending on groceries is estimated to be around $530,000 monthly, indicating that Rise captures only a small fraction of that market.

The story of Rise Community Market serves as a microcosm of the broader challenges facing grocery stores in food deserts across the United States. It highlights the need for comprehensive solutions that go beyond simply opening stores. As policymakers and community leaders work to address food insecurity, the experiences of Cairo and its residents will be crucial in shaping future initiatives.

In conclusion, the journey of Rise Community Market underscores the complexities of addressing food deserts. While the store’s opening was a moment of hope, its ongoing struggles reveal the systemic issues that must be tackled to ensure the long-term sustainability of grocery stores in underserved communities. The resilience of the Cairo community, coupled with targeted government support and fair competition, will be essential in determining the future of food access in the region.